Central Baku Hotel

A compact, no-frills hotel that works because the people who run it care. Rooms are modest, immaculately kept, some with narrow balconies that let in the city air and the occasional call of a distant muezzin. Breakfast is generous, more generous than the building's unassuming facade would suggest; come hungry and leave with change. There is no elevator, so pack light or ask for a low-floor room. The bar and lounge sit quietly off the small lobby, useful for a late tea or a nightcap after wandering Nizami Street. Staff names stick in your head long after check-out. They find taxis when traffic snarls, they offer hot tea while you wait, and they will bend over backwards if you need an extra night. Bring sensible shoes, a sense of curiosity, and ask for a room with a balcony and a morning sun patch.